Rooflight and skylight installation in Tiptree
A large village between Colchester and Maldon, mostly twentieth century housing.
Rooflights we install in Tiptree
Every job is surveyed first. The right unit depends on the roof you have, not on what we would rather sell.
Roof Lantern Installation
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Flat Roof Rooflight Installation
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Roof Window Installation
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VELUX Window Installation
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Electric and Opening Rooflights
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Energy Efficient Rooflights
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Replacing a Failed or Misted Rooflight
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Walk-On Rooflight Installation
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Conservation Rooflight Installation
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Sun Tunnel Installation
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Tiptree is one of the largest villages in Essex, sitting between Colchester and Maldon, and it is overwhelmingly twentieth century and later housing rather than historic stock.
Predictable roofs

That makes it one of the more predictable places we work. Trussed roofs, concrete interlocking tiles, few planning constraints outside the older core, and a lot of houses built to similar patterns in similar decades.
Where housing is consistent the right answer tends to be consistent across a street, which makes surveying quicker and replacement work predictable.
The standard jobs

Rear extensions with flat roof rooflights, loft rooms with roof windows between trusses, and a steady flow of replacement work on units fitted in the 1990s and early 2000s that are now misting.
Bungalows

There is a lot of bungalow stock here, which suits rooflights better than almost any other house type: every room has roof directly above it. That makes sun tunnels into internal bathrooms and hallways practical, and a lantern over a central living space a real option.
Skylight and rooflight work we cover in Tiptree

Roof lanterns, flat roof rooflights, roof windows, VELUX replacements, conservation units and sun tunnels, all surveyed before they are quoted. We also work in Kelvedon, Tollesbury and Layer-de-la-Haye.
Twentieth century village, twentieth century roofs

Tiptree grew substantially through the twentieth century and the housing reflects that. There is far less pre Victorian building here than in the villages to the north, and correspondingly far less of the conservation constraint that dominates places like Coggeshall and Dedham.
For rooflight and skylight work that is good news. Most Tiptree properties are permitted development, most roofs are straightforward, and the questions are technical rather than heritage.
Cut or trussed, which decides the price
The single most useful thing you can establish before asking for a quotation, and you can do it yourself with a torch.
Rafters running from eaves to ridge with a horizontal purlin partway up and clear space between them is a traditional cut roof. Forming or widening an opening is ordinary carpentry, wide rooflights are possible, and the loft is convertible.
A repeating pattern of triangular frames with diagonal members crossing the middle of the space, joined by flat pressed steel plates, is trussed rafters. Those are engineered components in which rafter, ceiling tie and webs work as one unit, and cutting any member sends load somewhere it was not designed to go.
With trusses, a unit narrow enough to sit between two of them at 600mm centres needs no structural work at all. Anything wider needs a designed trimmer and an engineer, which is where the price steps up and the most common reason a quotation comes back higher than expected.
Broadly, the earlier and mid century properties here are cut roofs and anything from the 1970s onward is likely trussed. A photograph looking up inside the loft settles it without a visit.
Coverings and pitch
Concrete interlocking tiles dominate, with clay on some of the older properties, on pitches typically between 30 and 35 degrees.
Interlocking tiles are profiled, which means a deep flashing kit rather than the flat kit used on slate. A flat kit leaves open voids under the tile channels where it crosses them, and water gets under within a season. It is the most common installation fault we find on other people’s work and it is invisible once the job is finished, which is exactly why cheap quotations save money there.
Ask any quoting installer which kit is specified for your covering by name. A quotation that cannot answer has not been written from a survey.
What we fit here
Roof windows into rear slopes for loft rooms and landings, which the cut roof properties take very well. Flat roof rooflights and lanterns over the rear extensions that a great many Tiptree houses have gained. Sun tunnels into internal bathrooms and hallways. And a growing amount of replacement work, because a lot of units went into this village in the 1980s and 1990s and sealed units last fifteen to twenty five years.
On any replacement, start by photographing the data plate on the sash rather than measuring. From that we can usually tell you what the unit is, whether the size is still made, and what the job costs, without anyone visiting.
Permissions
Straightforward for most properties. A rooflight on a house is permitted development provided it projects no more than 150mm beyond the plane of the roof and does not sit above the highest part of it, with additional obscure glazing and opening restrictions on side elevations facing a boundary.
The exceptions worth checking are individually listed buildings, which do exist here and which need consent regardless of slope or visibility, and flats and maisonettes, which have no permitted development rights at all.
A loft conversion is notifiable under Building Regulations whether or not planning permission is required, and the roof window in a habitable loft room usually carries the means of escape duty as well as providing daylight. That brings a minimum openable area and a maximum sill height above floor level, which rules out some designs. Settle it at design stage rather than at order stage.
Access
Generally good. Most properties have driveways or front gardens with space to stand a tower, and detached and semi detached layouts usually allow side access to the rear. Two storey rear slope work needs scaffold, but it can stand on private land, which avoids the highway licence that pavement scaffold requires in the older towns.
| Local factor | In Tiptree |
|---|---|
| Planning authority | Colchester City Council |
| Conservation position | None of significance |
| Typical roof covering | Concrete interlocking tile |
| Roof structure | Trussed rafters |
| Exposure | Inland, standard coatings |
| Most common job here | Flat roof extension rooflights |
Extensions and the flat roof detail

A large share of Tiptree properties have gained a rear extension at some point, and that is where most of the skylight work here happens.
The detail that decides whether a flat roof rooflight lasts twenty five years or causes trouble in three is the kerb, and it is worth understanding because it is where cheap quotations save money.
Height. At least 150mm of upstand. A rooflight bedded straight onto a flat deck sits in whatever water the roof holds, and every flat roof holds some.
Fall. The deck falls away from the kerb rather than toward it, so water cannot pond against the seal. On an older or self built extension this is the thing most often missing.
Insulation on the outer face. The item nobody mentions and the one that matters most for how the room feels. A 1200 by 1800 rooflight has six metres of perimeter, and an uninsulated timber kerb punching straight through the roof insulation presents close to a square metre of poorly performing envelope. It costs a sheet of rigid board and an hour, it disappears under the covering, and that is precisely why it gets skipped.
Continuous vapour control. Sealed to the frame, so warm moist air from the room cannot reach the cold side of the construction and condense inside it.
When comparing quotations, ask directly whether the kerb is insulated. It is the fastest way to tell who is detailing the job and who is fitting a unit.
Flat rooflights or a lantern
On a modest kitchen extension, two or three flat units in a row light a long room more evenly than one large one, cost less, and sit lower from outside.
On a larger extension with a flat ceiling and normal head height, a lantern gives volume the room does not otherwise have and collects light from more than one direction, so it stays bright as the sun moves rather than having one good hour. It needs the structure below to carry it, and on a small extension it can look out of proportion.
Getting the size right
Glazed area around 15 to 20 percent of floor area gives a bright room without turning it into a greenhouse. The common error is going straight to the largest unit that fits.
On a south or west facing extension, a very large rooflight without solar control glass produces a room nobody uses in July, and the fix afterwards costs nearly as much as the original installation because labour and access are identical either way. Moderate glazing with better glass, plus an opening unit at the highest point so heat can leave, gives a better room than more glass does.
Maintenance
Keep the perimeter clear, because leaves and silt collect around a kerb and standing water against a seal is what kills a flat roof unit early. Check the outlet the roof drains to, since a perfect fall discharging into a blocked gulley is a pond. Clean the gasket on an opening unit annually, because grit on a compression seal stops the sash seating and gets reported as a leak.
An actuator on a motorised unit is the shortest lived component, ten to fifteen years against twenty five for the glazing, and it is a serviceable part that unbolts and is replaced rather than a reason to change the window.
Loft conversions and escape windows

The cut roof properties here convert well, and the measurement that decides it is straightforward.
Measure from the top of the existing ceiling joists to the underside of the ridge. A floor structure, insulation and plasterboard will consume a great deal of that, and the working rule is that you want comfortably over 2.4 metres to end up with a usable room. Below about 2.2 metres the answer is usually no without raising the roof, which is a different project.
In a habitable loft room the roof window is normally doing two jobs. It provides daylight, which is a comfort question. It also frequently carries the means of escape duty under Building Regulations, which is not optional and which brings a minimum clear openable area, minimum opening dimensions, and a maximum height of the bottom of the opening above the finished floor.
The consequences catch people out. A centre pivot window is elegant and often unsuitable as an escape window, because the sash sits in the middle of the opening and obstructs it. A top hung unit that swings clear gives the full opening and is usually what gets specified. And setting a window high in the slope for a better view of the sky can put the opening out of reach for escape purposes.
All of that is settled at design stage rather than at order stage, because reversing it after the unit has arrived is expensive. Where an alternative escape route exists the requirement may be met elsewhere, and the roof window is then free to be chosen purely for light.
Blinds, noise and comfort

Three things worth settling before the unit is ordered.
Blinds. Mass market roof windows have clip in blackout, pleated and venetian blinds that fit exactly and cost far less than a made to measure blind fitted to a reveal. Order a blackout blind with the window where it is going over a bedroom; retrofitting is possible and fiddlier.
Shading. Internal blinds control light and privacy and do relatively little about heat, because the sun has already entered the room before the blind stops it. An external awning intercepts heat outside the glass and is dramatically more effective on a south or west facing unit.
Noise. Rain on a roof window is louder than people expect, particularly in a room directly beneath it. An acoustic laminate inner pane cuts it substantially, costs a modest premium at the point of order, and cannot sensibly be added later because the labour and access are the same as replacing the whole unit. Over a bedroom or study it is usually worth it; over a kitchen usually not.
Asked by people in Tiptree
Is Tiptree straightforward?
Largely, yes. It is one of the biggest villages in Essex and overwhelmingly twentieth century and later housing, so most jobs are trussed rafters, concrete interlocking tile and no conservation constraint.
What decides the size I can have?
Truss spacing. At 600mm centres a unit narrow enough to sit between two trusses needs no structural work at all, and anything wider needs a designed repair because a truss is an engineered component. Going taller rather than wider is the cheap route to more glass.
Can I have a lantern over a kitchen extension?
Commonly, and the two things to settle first are the roof build-up and the fall. The kerb must be insulated on its outer face, and a lantern kerb on a roof with marginal fall will have water ponding against it permanently, which is what ends waterproofing details.
Is there any planning constraint in Tiptree?
Rarely, on the bulk of the village. The exception is a planning condition removing permitted development rights, which happens on some newer estates and is worth checking for a specific address.
More areas we cover
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